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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.